Journal by author: Farrah

1. The Last Word

   By Farrah 19 Aug ‘08 News

   It's been a mindblowing journey. As the plane bringing us home from Pakistan descended to Heathrow, London twinkled up at us. I saw the London Eye, Big Ben, the royal parks and the blue-green Thames winding through the city. It was like the closing credits of Eastenders, except with jetlag. Over the past 50 days, Masood and I have physically circumnavigated Planet Earth seeking lovely Osamas. We've searched in six countries, across Europe, Africa, the Middle East, South and South East Asia and North America. We've covered nearly 40,000 miles and met over a hundred Osamas of all different sorts, from a romance-loving truck driver to a Black Sabbath TV talkshow rocker, with plenty in between. They've been cheeky, sombre, sweet, intellectual, shy, humble, dashing, generous, commanding, suspicious and hilarious.

   We didn't even come close to our target of 500 Osamas but it doesn't matter. This mission was supposed to show people the tender, human side of Muslims that is often overlooked. It was also meant as a counter to the frequent and unfair association of violent extremists with the Muslim community who make up a fifth of the world's population. Meeting Muslims from cultural backgrounds hugely different from my own has reconnected me with some of the more beautiful and unifying aspects of the faith itself. As Ramadan approaches this September I might just take a trip down to Regent's Park mosque to check out that same strength and serenity I saw reflected around the world from Jakarta to Toronto.

   Though all the people we met across the world were undoubtedly unique, the ties that united the stockbroker from Canada and the goat's milk distributor from Indonesia were obvious and warm and truly reassuring. Humour, humanity and kindness transcend barriers of culture and language - it's cheesy cos it's true, dammit! The stunning backdrops of tropical forests, ancient pyramids, cityscapes and thundering waterfalls have all paled in comparison to the pleasure of meeting not only these wonderful people called Osama, but their fascinating friends, families, taxi drivers, immigration officials, curious passersby and people who've helped us along the way. Of all those who helped us, a special thanks must go to our readers on the internet and all the Osamas and their pals who uploaded their pictures to the website! Nothing could have cheered us up more on our travels than logging on to find another face and encouraging comments from you.

   The search isn't quite over yet, though. Osama Loves is still open for business, and I hear that one of them - Oussama Mellouli of Tunisia - has just won an Olympic Gold medal! Go Osamas of the World! So next time you bump into one, make sure you ask him what he loves, take a snap and upload it to the site. Finally, if you want to see our adventure in moving colour, don't miss the documentary for all the behind the scenes footage - it'll be going out on Channel 4 later on in the year.
   Bye for now!
   Farrah and Masood

   

2. Heartbreak Hotel

   By Farrah 14 Aug ‘08 News

   It's Independence Day in Pakistan today. For days, the people of Pakistan have been preparing joyfully for this day. Across the country, flags are flying, colourful bunting is up and there are fairy lights everywhere.

   Masood and I have been looking forward to the festivities in the vibrant city of Lahore since arriving in Pakistan and were planning to take advantage of the huge celebrating crowds to get some quality Osama-hunting in.

   Last night there was a suicide bombing in the city as the clock approached midnight on the eve of Independence Day. At least seven are dead.

   I am so sad. We're stuck in our hotel right now as the security risk to a camera crew is high, but others out there have been braver than us. Even after the deadly bombing, people went out on the streets and celebrated late into the night.

   The sheer will to live reminds me a bit of London after we were attacked in 2005. Though there is a difference between the stiff upper lips of the British commuters who got straight back on the Tube and the flamboyant jubilation of Lahoris doing wheelies on motorbikes wrapped in giant flags, the underlying spirit is the same.

   I'm going to try and take some of that spirit on board to wash away this feeling - I am sickened to the soul.

   This picture makes me feel a bit better though.

   

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3. OSAMA CENTURION!

   By Farrah 12 Aug ‘08 Osama found

   We've made it to 100 Osamas! There were moments when I thought we'd never see this day. It hasn't been easy, but the joy of seeing that brace of smiling Osamas up there for your delectation makes it worth it. It seems fitting that our hundredth Osama should be a young Pakistani news anchor, full of optimism and sparkling with energy.

   He had us hooked chatting over chai in Karachi - there was so much to talk about. Pakistan is a very exciting place to be right now for a lot of reasons. For example, there's the nearby physical frontline of the Global War on Terror (aka the Gee WOT), impending political impeachment, stunning monsoon rains, delirious crowds preparing to celebrate Pakistan Independence Day on Thursday, and last but not least, the involuntary daily practice of gastrointestinal russian roulette.

   We've only got a few days left but the Osamas are coming in thick and fast - don't forget to upload yourself if you are one, and if you know one, put him in touch with us!

   

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4. Nang Raja's Glittering Eye

   By Farrah 11 Aug ‘08 Osama found

   Karachi's Clifton Beach is a hazy place of vast horizons over rolling, foam-capped waves. Camels decked in bright pompoms pace the sand sedately, occasionally startling me with a snort or bellow. Sindhi hawkers in embroidered caps ply their trade selling sweet treats or lover's trinkets.

   Here I met our first two Pakistani Osamas today - a pair of cheerful college students, impeccably polite and full of academic promise. One of the Osamas was born and raised in Saudi Arabia and even had a "bin" in his name. After the windows of his home were blown out by one of The Bad Osama's own bombs exploding four doors down the street, he binned the bin.

   As I stood there in the sea breeze thinking about what I'd do if someone heinously evil suddenly ruined the name Farrah for me, I was distracted by a strange and hypnotic music coming from behind me. Then I met the beady-eyed and sinuous Nang Raja and his charmer, a Jogi whose forefathers and their fathers have caught and charmed cobras for as long as he knows.

   

5. Rooting for Osamas in Pakistan

   By Farrah 10 Aug ‘08 Help

   Where the Indus flows into the sea lies Karachi, the world's second largest city after Bombay. Originally a sleepy fishing village, today it sprawls along the coast as a humid, organic, gritty metropolis of 12 million souls. To the east is the Indus delta, rich with mangrove swamps, and to the west are miles of deserted sandy beaches and golden cliffs stretching to the Iranian border. Nearby, a mystical Sufi shrine to the saint Mungo Pir houses an anomalous congregation of holy crocodiles.

   Karachi has seen its fair share of trauma, so when I heard five rapid gunshots under a clear half moon this evening on my way to get some fabled Sindhi biryani I froze. "What was that?" I asked a nearby Pakistani. "Ah, firearms," he replied with a cheeky grin, "Maybe someone's been shot dead. Or...maybe it's just a wedding. Welcome to Pakistan!"

   The best antidote to this dark dash of Karachi humour was obviously kebabs - and what mighty, succulent kebabs they were! Over mouthwatering grills and gorgeously fragrant rice we planned our strategy for Osama hunting. Here, we need to seek out our lovely targets with sensitivity. The last thing I want to do is prang a nerve and cause more misunderstanding. We're in the eye of the storm and must tread lightly.

   

6. The Land of the Indus

   By Farrah 09 Aug ‘08 News

   After weeks of anxious waiting our Pakistani journalists visas finally came through - at the eleventh hour. The idea that we might not make it to Pakistan was unthinkable. It's so important for us to go there, not just in terms of its significance for the project and its role in global affairs, but on a deeply personal level.

   Though I have English seaside air to thank for any robustness I may have, the earth of Pakistan nurtured my parents, grandparents and ancestors as far back as I know. I'm the first transplanted sapling in the line to arrive on home counties soil. It's only natural then, that I know when I land in Pakistan, something's going to flip over inside my heart and I will feel the visceral tug of my roots.

   Once what we're doing is clear to the people we meet, I reckon Pakistanis will go that extra mile to help us out. It's been five years since I last visited and I'm remembering all the good things: the sound of the dhol drum, eating nihari in Lahore, the green wheatfields of the Punjab, riotous colour and above all, that Pakistani warmth that I want to hang on to, no matter how British I might feel. Here's a picture of the Lahore skyline - you can pick out which parts of it are mosque, fort and Sikh gurdwara.

   
   
   Thanks to the fabulous Osamas worldwide who are uploading themselves - keep it coming! A little birdy tells me there might be some Japanese Osamas out there...

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7. Uu Kanata! Piqujatii nalattiaqpavut!

   By Farrah 06 Aug ‘08 News

   That's Inuktitut for "O Canada! Your brow is girded with glorious garlands". Frankly, right now I could sing that across Toronto's rooftops with sheer joy, if only I could pronounce it.

   Two days into our Canada leg and we've found a few exquisite Canadian Osamas and been in the papers, on the 6 o' clock news and breakfast radio calling out to Osamas to upload themselves. Apparently there are tons of 'em in Montreal! I'm truly staggered by Toronto's cultural and ethnic diversity and the....well....I was going to say "tolerance", but that's not quite right. Canada doesn't tolerate its many different kinds of citizens - it wholeheartedly celebrates the heritage of its Greek, Lebanese, Pakistani, Orthodox Jewish or Chinese Canadians!

   Here's one of our Canadian Osamas and his mates. Er, I'm attempting to make a "W" sign to represent West London.

   

   Meanwhile, closer to home, Mary and Chris from iTalk in Ireland called for a chat on their radio show. I'd doubted the worth of a callout for Osamas in Ireland but within minutes of coming on air, an Osama texted in from North West Ireland! It was a real morale boost being on the show and it left me thinking about historical reasons why the Irish listeners seemed to identify so much with our mission....

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8. Swapping nasi goreng for pancakes and maple syrup.

   By Farrah 02 Aug ‘08 News

   Though troubled by jetlag and running low on Indonesian Osamas, this leg of the trip has been an eye-opener. I'd never associated Islam with South East Asia before but it's here in the air and has an unmistakable presence and influence.

   The largest mosque in South East Asia is in Jakarta - the Istiqlal Mosque. Designed by a Christian, it is a cool, airy, white marble structure standing opposite the cathedral. It can hold thousands of worshippers, and women and men pray side by side. The mosque's serene inner sanctum provides respite from the traffic and tropical bird chatter of the smoggy city outside. Here is our last sunset in Indonesia. It's time to move on.

   

   Now that we've opened up the Osama seeking to people to upload themselves, there's a small chance we may make the challenge. Word needs to spread to the Osamas of the world and we need your help for this to happen. We're off to our next destination as we speak - one of the most ethnically and culturally diverse cities in North America and home to the Argonauts, Blue Jays, Marlies and Raptors...any guesses? Here's a clue.

   

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9. Milky Milky!

   By Farrah 01 Aug ‘08 Osama found

   This morning met Osama from Jakarta at 5.45am. He loves martial arts and his job involves distributing goat's milk. At the crack of dawn, I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of his 400 pungent goaty pals. Amid the bleating and a familiar odour reminiscent of the cheese counter at my local supermarket, I watched the skillful milking of several full-bellied goatesses. They were very tolerant as I squatted with a pail and began to tweak their plump teats under expert supervision.

   Despite having domesticated goats for about ten thousand years I couldn't help but think that it was a bit strange for an adult human female to be kneading the udders of another species to extract milk intended for its young. My goat victim was infinitely patient and rolled a yellow eye at me. I patted her rump in thanks when I had finished and she began her breakfast of soya slops with a quiet dignity.

   After milking this morning, I met another lovely Osama - a biographer, politician and journalist who runs a successful media house in Jakarta. As we stepped into his luxurious office and smartly dressed aides scurried around us, I suddenly became acutely aware that I smelled quite goatish. I hope he didnt mind. His love will be up soon!

   

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10. Little Lion of Jakarta

    By Farrah 30 Jul ‘08 Osama found

    The volcanic island of Java is a rather special place. After all, it's home to the first archaeological specimen of homo erectus ever found, incredible biodiversity and coffee beans.

    Seeking Osamas among the undulating banana leaves of Jakarta's charming side streets led me to an even more remarkable little boy. Let me introduce you to little Osama, aged 6 years, 10 months and 19 days. He loves riding his bike, among other things including his skateboard, Playstation and parents. Possibly in that order.

    Young Osama was born in a Leeds hospital on September 11th 2001. His name had been decided many months before that day. I watched a video tape of his birth at a hospital in Leeds today and heard his father announce his name in the delivery suite. A fresh English rose of a midwife replies in a broad Yorkshire accent "Ooh, that's a lovely name!"

    Today we played together, ate chocolate cake and chased squawking chickens down the street. He's too young to really understand why his name and birthday are so astonishing for us and why British broadsheets ran huge colour pictures of him as a newborn. He did love learning that his name means "young lion" in Arabic, and here's a picture of both of us doing our best lion impressions. His beats mine hands down I think.
    
    

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